Captain's Log

Archive for the 'Voyage of the Atlantic World 2008' Category

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Tall Ships America Conference

Captain Moreland and I were at the Tall Ships America annual conference in Boston last week.  Picton Castle is a member of Tall Ships America, whose mission is “to encourage character building through sail training, promote sail training to the North American public, and support education under sail.”

We try to make sure that Picton Castle is represented every year, especially in the years leading up to a tall ships event summer.  Picton Castle will be taking part in a number of tall ship festivals and events in the summer of 2017, so it was important for us to be there for the general learning that takes place at the conference as well as some specific sessions that relate to planning and logistics of these upcoming events.

And, my goodness, are we excited about the upcoming voyage this summer!

There is still work to be done, but we were able to meet with port organizers from many of the ports we’ll be visiting as part of the Rendezvous 2017 Tall Ships Regatta.  Meeting them in person and talking with them about the events they have planned makes us think our crew are going to have a fantastic time this summer.  From a reggae concert in Bermuda to the hospitality of Charleston, the crew parade in Boston to fireworks in Quebec City, we’re in for a treat!

The packed conference schedule kept us on our toes.  Sessions started at 0745 or 0800 and ran until about 1800 most days, followed by receptions or dinners most evenings.  Wednesday’s safety forum and education forum, which are aimed specifically at ship operators, covered topics ranging from ship stability to managing crew fatigue to individual donor fundraising.  On Thursday and Friday, ship operators were joined by host ports, suppliers and others interested in the business and sailing of tall ships.  Session topics included tips on sailing to Cuba, financial management and shared resources, how to produce a series of promotional videos (go check out SeaMester’s webpage for some videos that made me want to go sailing!), human resources, weather for passage planning, and so much more.

The Captain often tells me that while the sessions are good, meeting and talking with people is what it’s really all about.  We both had a chance to catch up with old friends and colleagues, find out what they’re doing now and share some old memories.  We also both met lots of new people and made new connections.

As I kept seeing shipmate after shipmate, I realized that this particular conference had a high concentration of current or former Picton Castle crew present.  Although I may have forgotten someone, I counted at least 21 Picton Castle sailors either attending the conference or visiting during the conference.  While I didn’t quite manage to coordinate a photo with all of us, it was great to see so many people who have spent time aboard with us still working or somehow engaged in the industry.

Captain Moreland was asked to speak twice during the conference.  Once was a lunchtime presentation about Picton Castle’s upcoming seventh world circumnavigation voyage, which I recorded and hope to get uploaded soon to share with you.  As he spoke, a slideshow of tropical images from previous voyages played behind him, in sharp contrast with the snowstorm that kept us all inside the hotel and conference centre that day.  His second talk was at the very end of the conference, wrapping up the official business of the conference before the gala dinner.  In that short talk, he wisely pointed out that every ship and every program does something better than you, so you should learn what that is, adapt it and adopt it on board.  One of the points of a conference like this is to talk with our colleagues to find out how they do things, share how we do things, and learn to do things better.  As I’ve heard Tall Ships America Executive Director Bert Rogers say a number of times, “the rising tide floats all ships.”

The conference ended with a gala dinner and dance, commonly referred to as the “prom.”  Those of you who have seen photos from crew parties or receptions know that sailors clean up well, and those at this conference were no different.  Everyone put on their finest outfits for a classy sit-down dinner (did I mention that the food all week at the Seaport Hotel in Boston was wonderful?), followed by dancing to music by a live band until well into the night.


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January 30, 2017 – Sending Down the Mizzen Topmast

Yesterday was as good a day one could ask for in Lunenburg in January to do some rigging work.  The temperature was above freezing, the sun was shining and there was almost no wind.

Picton Castle is currently in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, Canada and we’re getting some maintenance work done aboard.  We had sent down most of the running rigging as part of Bosun School last fall.  The one remaining thing that we wanted to send down for inspection was the mizzen topmast.

Picton Castle’s fore and main masts are made up of three parts, the lower mast which is made of steel, the topmast which is also made of steel, and the t’gallant mast which is made of wood.  The mizzen mast, the one farthest aft, is made up of two parts, the lower mast which is made of steel, and the topmast which is made of wood. 

We have sent down the mizzen topmast a few times in the past few years, always inspecting it, repairing it as necessary and sending it back up.  Our intention this time is to send it down, inspect it, and likely replace it.  We have a telephone pole aboard, lashed in the port breezeway, that is an excellent blank spar for this kind of project.

Although we only had a small number of hands to help get the mizzen topmast down, they used mechanical advantage to get the job done.  The majority of the weight of the mast was supported by a line that ran all the way from the mizzen mast to the capstan on the foc’sle head.  Anything that could be removed from the mast was removed and sent down to deck, then started the slow and careful process of lowering the mast through the cap while working the rigging secured around it to the top so it could eventually be removed by lifting it over the top of the mast.

Now that the mizzen topmast is down at deck level we can assess its state, look at the previous repairs and how well they’re holding, and likely use it as a pattern for making a new one.

Why not watch the video!



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Conference Time in Sweden

Captain Moreland and I just got home to Lunenburg from the Sail Training International conference in Halmstad, Sweden.

This is an annual conference, held in various places around the world, for tall ship operators, owners, crew, host ports, and anyone else interested in sail training.  We try to participate, representing Picton Castle, as often as possible.  Halmstad will host the Tall Ships Races this coming summer so the conference was also hosted there, in the Tylosand Hotel, a pretty swanky hotel/resort with a huge modern art collection overlooking a beach on the Kattegat, an extension of the Skagerrak and the North Sea, that’s seven kilometres long. 20161126_143859-reduced20161122_130136-reduced

To get there, we flew to Copenhagen.  Since the Captain and I are both big fans of Copenhagen and we have shipmates and friends living there, we arranged to stay a day or so there to adjust to the time zone change and do some visiting before heading for Halmstad.  I love all things festive and I have to say that the Danes have holiday spirit figured out, especially at this time of year.  We strolled along the canal in Nyhavn, which used to be where all the sailors came ashore and is now a tourist area, and found all sorts of little booths selling warm drinks, snacks, gifts and souvenirs, all under the glow of Christmas lights and garlands. 20161122_155320-reduced

The day before the conference officially began, we attended a meeting of the Ships Council.  The Ships Council is made up of all ships that want to be members and we communicate, both in person and electronically, about issues of importance to sail training.  Within the Ships Council there is a Tall Ships Forum (of which we’re a member) and the Small Ships Forum (for smaller sail training vessels).  While there are some issues that affect all sail training ship operators, there are some that are more common to larger or smaller ships.  All of Thursday was spent as a whole Ships Council, tall ships and small ships together, discussing things like learning from case studies of accidents and near misses, emergency response plans, and marketing to attract trainees. 20161127_101936-reduced

One of the initiatives Sail Training International has undertaken recently is the website  which is designed to help trainees with no sailing experience or prior knowledge of tall ships find out what the experience is all about, then help them choose a ship to sign aboard.  If you’re in Canada, you may have already seen or heard TV or radio advertising sending people to this website.  We’re excited about any initiative that helps to spread the word about what ships like ours do and gets people on board!20161126_153228-reduced

The conference itself began on Friday November 25 with an update on what Sail Training International has done in the past year and what is coming up in the next few years.  After the one general session for everyone, there were a number of sessions offered at the same time so we were able to choose which to attend.  We received more information about next summer’s Rendezvous 2017 Tall Ships Regatta, we met with a variety of ports that we could potentially visit in the future at a series of speed meetings (like speed dating), and we took in a number of other presentations and discussions throughout Friday and Saturday.20161126_165303-reduced

The last official business of the conference was to present awards to various individuals, ships and programs.  A full list of winners is available here [].  We’re particularly proud of Captain Moreland’s old friend and shipmate Captain Jarle Flatebo who was awarded the Lifetime Achievement in Sail Training.  Captain Flatebo was most recently the master of the Norwegian ship Statsraad Lehmkuhl, but the two met while they both worked on the Danish state training ship Danmark.20161126_171543-reduced

While we certainly learned from the sessions and workshops offered, perhaps the greatest value in attending a conference like this is the opportunity to meet and talk with people who do things similar to us.  Each ship has its own unique operations and challenges, but there are certain common elements.  By discussing what we each do, asking questions and talking about situations, we can learn from one another, share good ideas, share ideas that didn’t quite work out, and combine resources and knowledge.  It was great to see old friends, catch up with them and what they’re working on now, and to meet new people and make new connections.  We look forward to seeing many of these friends and colleagues again this summer as Picton Castle joins an international fleet of tall ships for the Rendezvous 2017 Tall Ships Regatta.





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Settling Into Life at Sea

Captain’s Log
Kate (Bob) Addison – 4 November 2015

The theme of today has been rainbows and wind. Squalls have been blowing over bringing short rain showers and gusty wind, but there’s not been much bite in them so far. And the sunshine after each shower kept our own personal rainbow aglow for much of the day.

It’s been one of those bright, active days when the few seabirds still around dance and glide in the wind like it’s all just for fun, and the clouds scud across the sky on their celestial sleigh ride. The afternoon sun breaking through the clouds to starboard could have been a renaissance oil painting and with the wind between force 4 and 6 on the port quarter, we’ve been flying along our course. Just a great sailing day for a square-rigger making passage across the North Atlantic.

The edge of the Gulf Stream has taken the chill out of the water, so while it’s still plenty fresh on deck, at least the living spaces are a comfortable temperature so you can warm up and be snug down below on your off watch. And if Donald’s not too busy then the galley is a great spot to sneak in and warm up your hands over the stove.

Donald’s been keeping us well fed – it never ceases to amaze me how he calmly and cheerfully turns out big soups and stews and rotis, usually served with fresh bread and fresh or canned fruit no matter the weather or how much his galley is rolling out from under him. And that’s just as well because boy does being at sea make you hungry! There’s the constant motion of your whole world meaning core muscles are getting a work out just from sitting down or walking around, even lying in your bunk takes muscles or at least careful wedging. There’s all the fresh air and exercise: running aloft to loose the mainsail, or out in the head rig to furl a jib; even setting up for meals and cleaning up takes a whole lot more effort on rolling decks, when you can’t put anything down without it being lashed or taking flight. There’s also a whole lot to learn and hard-working brains need feeding.

It all reminds me of a quote in our Crew Handbook by brilliant marine author Jan de Hartog:

“Apprenticeship is a necessary period in one’s life as a sailor. There will be moments of elation when the future presents itself in all of its boundless glory, while gazing at the stars; there will be moments of dark dejection when one will mainly feel hungry.”

4 Nov Rainbow

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Day’s Run – July 17, 2015

REMARKS: Once again we are underway, heading to Portland Maine for our last tall ship festival stop of the summer. The small boat sailing of the last two days has proven, once again, to be an invaluable teaching method. Today there is a noticeable difference in the confidence of the new trainee crew members to know where to go and what to do when an order is given. Our more seasoned crew members and pro crew have also been challenged and improved in their ability to teach line handling and seamanship to people who all learn in different ways. What all of this amounts to is a slow building of confidence each time we set sail. There are certainly a lot more smiles these days than looks of confusion when the Captain issues an order. This is a lovely thing to see firsthand as I know full well how hard everyone has worked to get here.

SHIP’S WORK: Paint black on t’gallant rails; prepped quarterdeck boxes for varnish; continued greasing running rigging aloft; replaced mainsail starboard inner buntline.

Closer inspection

BOUND FROM: Greenport, NY
TOWARDS: Portland, ME
NOON POSITION: 42°32.4’N /070°41.9’W
DAYS RUN: 3.5 nm
COURSE AND SPEED: South by west 1/4 west, CMGT 190
WIND: East by south, 2
WEATHER: Barometer 1022, sunny, clouds 4/6
SAILS SET: All sails

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Day’s Run – July 7, 2015

Today is a transition day for us as we have crew signing off and new trainees signing on. This necessitates a flurry of activity to get our 15 new crew members sorted out in their personal spaces, shown the layout of the ship and oriented through safety training. Most importantly though, while still tied to the dock, the lesson of how to properly flush a marine head. Believe me, nobody, but nobody, wants to deal with the consequences of skipping that particular lesson!

Aldo, from Aldo’s in Greenport, you are a prince among men for letting me haul in 15 1kg bags of coffee this morning to grind up before we let go lines. Greenport Brewing, thank you too for donating a keg of beer to the soiree held on the Picton Castle for the tall ship crew members in port. Lastly, as I lick the butter off my fingers, thank you to the fishing vessel Illusion for the lobster dinner we thoroughly enjoyed tonight. From the Captain to the cat, we all heartily thank you!

SHIP’S WORK: Gaff went back up; bent on spanker.

Twenty minute lobster dinner

NOON POSITION: 41°06.0’N /072°21.6’W
DAYS RUN: 0 nm
WEATHER: Humid, barometer 1022, cool breeze

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Day’s Run – June 30, 2015

On your marks…get set…GO!! Today at 10am we began the race to Greenport with Sagres, L’Hermione and Lettie G Howard. What a sight it was – simply stated, it looks like a few tall ships and a beautiful sloop casually met up for a day or two of sailing together. Except that it is so much more than that. These ships, mostly from or operated as would’ve done in the age of sail, are rarely in the same area of the world let alone within sight of each other. Seeing and touring them while in port is one thing, but watching as they come along beside you in open water gives an entirely different perspective…a new frame of reference. This is certainly not something you get to see everyday. Taking a moment to actually realize just what we are a part of by participating in this race, to me, is as important as gazing upon the ships themselves. I am now a part of Picton Castle’s history – a ship that comes from history itself.

SHIP’S WORK: Replace ratlan; end for ended the fore upper top’sl halyard and the fore t’gallant halyard; painted capstay ceasings.

Bosun giving instructions

TOWARDS: Greenport, NY
NOON POSITION: 39°05.5’N /074°23.4’W
DAYS RUN: 118 nm
COURSE AND SPEED: East northeast, 5.8 kts, 042 CMGT
WIND: South by west, 4
WEATHER: Sunny, barometer 1019
SAILS SET: All sails

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8 Days and 900 Nautical Miles From Cape Brett, New Zealand

By Chelsea McBroom

January 6th, 2014

Since the first day of the New Year in the Picton Castle, we have caught four very large fish. We have spoiled ourselves with ceviche (aka poisson cru, raw tuna with coconut milk), baked and fried fish that Donald has magically created.

The crew that were with us from Sydney to Auckland seem to be expecting the worst in terms of weather so they’re pleasantly surprised at how nice it is out here. Fine breezes, small seas. Bright blue sky now and then, dusted with sheer cloud and the usual endless body of water beneath us. The ship has been able to set all the square sails.

The past few days we have all gathered together at 1630 for workshops. Our first workshop was part of our abandon ship training. We sat around the hatch preparing emergency bags should we ever need to abandon ship. The Captain told us that in addition the food packs in the life rafts, should we need to abandon ship, it’s better to have real food along with us. So we cleared the shelves of a grocery store in Opua and Pahia of peanut butter, jam and biscuits to add to the bags of sharpened and tape-covered knives, fishing gear, rope, a block of wood for cutting fish, and small bags of water (among a lot of other things). We had three orientation and training sessions in all on this subject so far.

During another workshop the crew split into their watches to work on knots, whippings and eye splices, bringing the newer trainees up to speed and refreshing some of the older gang. Today the crew mustered for a long splice demonstration before attempting the easy and salty task themselves. We are lucky to have many experienced crew with so much to teach one another: tricks like remembering how to start the first three tucks of an eye splice or how to literally throw together a figure eight knot.

Outside of workshop hours the crew is prepping and maintaining the ship by tarring the shrouds (and anything else that will improve being covered in it such as the crew), chipping the main upper tops’l yard and coating it to prevent rust, and painting the storm covers for the chart house windows. Outside of all the activity, now and then a member of the crew will look up from the sail they are stowing aloft or out from the ship’s position on the horizon at the helm and their focused expression will change as they remember where they are and how amazing this all is.

crew examine emergency gear during an abandon ship drill

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Tearful Farewells at Palmerston

The Picton Castle spent eight days anchored off Palmerston Atoll. While two watches spent time ashore, one watch stayed on the ship. This is not unusual, this is the norm. We follow a similar pattern every time we dock, anchor or moor. But in this case at Palmerston the attention was particularly keen.

While not paricularly dangerous, the anchorage near Palmerston is most certainly one of the trickier spots. The Captain says it’s a typical South Pacific dodgy anchorage – very few “good” anchrages in the South Pacific. Evidence of many a ship wreck are visible on the reef and stories of the ghosts of the sailors are told by the locals at night. The ship’s anchor was secure to be certain – wedged under a piece of the coral reef. What was worrisome was the wind. The wind had slowly picked up during our stay in Palmerston and by day five was blowing an average of 25 knots. While working in our favour by blowing us off the reef, it could switch, and blow us toward the reef. Fortunately, it almost never does something like this quickly or without signs that it is coming. This made anchor watch an interesting and serious affair and the Captain, Mike, Paul and Rebecca all had discussions on anchors and lessons on proper anchor watch. Constant vigilence is the key to a safe ship.

Every deckhand or trainee has an hour watch during the night during which time they watch for changes in wind speed and direction, squalls on the horizon, slack the running rigging when it rains (preventing strain on the yards), the position of the ship, observe the depth and do ship checks – watching for anything abnormal. The mate or the Captain writes up specific instructions for the crew to follow and leave strict orders to wake them if any danger or doubt arises. The new trainees are paired with more experienced deckhands during their first month on board so that they can observe proper procedures, ask questions and feel confident when their turn comes to watch.

Rebecca’s watch (the 12-4) caught a shark! Measuring a metre and a half this was no baby either and excited radio calls bounced back and forth between the ship and shore – everyone offering advice on the best way to bring it onboard the ship and the best way to gut and preserve it – not to mention the best way to cook it!

No, life onboard the ship does not consist of sailors forlornly looking at the shore waiting for their turn on land. There is plenty of work to do on the ship despite the fact that our full hold and passengers make regular ships work near impossible. We still do general maintenance and painting, organize the hold and the sole, do ship domestics, galley duty and stow and lash and ready the ship for sea… and then when the sun is high in the sky and the sweat is prominent on the brow, the Captain or one of the mates might order a swim call or a power shower. Refreshed some have a nap, some watch a movie, some read a book and some sit and talk about the day.

Back on land, back on Palmerston, preparations began for the dance performance. Costumes were finished. Hair was pulled and twisted and manipulated with vegetation. Songs were hummed. Nerves were twisted. Stomachs were knotted. And then we were ready. The islanders had prepared a massive BBQ and we, it seemed, were to be the appetizer. Our dance trainers, Haua, Bob and Taia, had coached us in three different songs which the whole island (all in all about 60 people) had turned out to see.

The women went first. Strutting to the centre of the circle – shoulders back – hips twisted ever so slightly we danced – desperately trying to remember every move while remembering to have fun and make our teachers proud. Alex, Meredith, Georgie, Alison, Cheri and Nadja all kept us all on track. While our ‘waving palm trees’ were not perfectly aligned, do trees really ever sway in perfect synchronicity? Our first two songs were over before we knew it and we walked to the perimeter of the festivities – hearts pounding and adrenaline pumping.

The men were next and they did not disappoint. They had the moves down, but more importantly they embodied the attitude behind the music. Bent knees, swinging arms, sandy shuffle, hip thrust. It was an extremely entertaining show. Well done! Both groups performed a grand finale dance before bowing into the shade of the palm trees.

Prominent islanders gave speeches, the minister gave a prayer for fair winds, our Pukapuka passengers performed four songs with dance (a little sneak preview for us) and the Captain gave his namesake – little Daniel Moreland Marsters – his first haircut.

And then we had a feast… and a true island feast it was. The table was laid out with all the local delicacies and everyone ate and ate and ate until they could eat no more. We celebrated our last night on this beautiful atoll in style with more dancing and sing-sings that lasted well into the night.

Morning came all too quickly and with it the farewells. It was much harder to say goodbye then any of us anticipated. We were all given presents. Does the generosity ever end? Some of us were given handmade fans with shells woven in. Some were given black pearls or jewellery or homemade brooms. And we all knew the effort and thoughtfulness that went into these gifts.

Many of the islanders accompanied us to the ship for snacks and a repeat dance performance. Ten yachts were also anchored or moored in the lee of the island and their crew were also invited onto the ship. Emotions ran high when it came time to haul up the anchor and get underway. While excited to get back to sea, we were also terribly sad to leave behind our new found family. But as the Captain aptly pointed out you cannot come back if you do not leave!

When the Picton Castle left we carried with us not only precious memories and gifts, but one of the atoll’s own. Taia Marsters joined the ship as a trainee and we are all thrilled to have her on board. She had been waiting since she was 12 for a chance to sail in Picton Castle. Not only is she funny and sweet, but she is also arguably one of the best dancers in the Cook Islands and a strong boat handler. Let the dancing continue!

Preparing to dance
Sharing photos in the palm trees after the dance
The men perform on the hatch

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Passage to Palmerston

The Picton Castle left Avatiu Harbour in Rarotonga at 2 pm on August 31st. A dock full of well-wishers waved and cheered as we readied the ship for sea. It was reminiscent of a Lunenburg send-off, which was suiting because the Picton Castle also calls this harbour home as well. Among the crowd were some familiar faces – Maggie (our Purser and Voyage Coordinator), Julie, Nadia, Bob, Pania (from the 4th World Voyage), Michael Z, Katie, Garth and Alana (our ‘agents’ in Rarotonga), Vaka crew and members of the Cook Islands Voyaging society. Yes, the Picton Castle had some good friends here in Rarotonga and had made many more on this visit. It was also the end of Leg 1 of the Fifth World Voyage – and consequently we were saying goodbye to some of our crew. They are moving onto other adventures and we all wish Julie, Joanna, Meredith, Kate ‘Bob’, Nadia, Katie, Michael Z and Via fair winds. Maggie will return to Lunenburg and continue to work for the ship at our main office there. You will all be missed onboard!

Along with a ship full of cargo bound for Palmerston, Nassau and Pukapuka we also carried passengers to these remote islands and atolls. Pukapuka and Palmerston had not had a supply ship in some time so the Captain was asked if we could help out. Some of our passengers were off to visit, some for work or campaigning in elections and some were going home for good – ready to be with family again and get away from the hustle and bustle of life in Rarotonga or New Zealand. Their family and friends also stood on the dock waving their farewells and passing messages for their friends far away.

The seas were a sheet of calm and with nothing but a huff of breeze it was necessary to motor for the two days to Palmerston. As we motored out of the harbour and into the deep blue the Captain reminded us of a beautiful tradition. When the Picton Castle arrived in Rarotonga everyone was given leis (called ‘eis here) of deeply aromatic and colourful flowers. They sweetened our living quarters for a time and this was the time to let them go. For to cast them into the water – from bow or stern – was to ensure that we would return to Rarotonga and the South Pacific. And a return was what we all had in mind as we watched the trail of tiare’s drifting on the waves -the dramatic mountains of this beautiful island providing a magnificent backdrop for our dreams.

Motoring has its benefits. It certainly was an easier adjustment for those new to the rhythms of ship living. Without the added excitement of constantly setting and taking in sail they could walk the decks with one of the deckhands and go over the lines and their functions. Soon enough they would see them in action. Helm was especially relaxed in this fair weather. With just slight turns of the wheel one could stay on course. Seasickness was also less likely on a passage such as this. Rolling was expected, but it was gentle and new crew and passengers alike were thankful for this.

The Picton Castle has bunk space for 52 and with our passengers we now had 68 people onboard. The hatch was made into a large and comfy bed and families nestled in for a rest – their belongings stowed neatly away in the hold. To make life a little more comfortable the crew set up a large canvas awning over the hatch. This helped to serve several purposes. It blocked sea spray and sun – and, if it rained, it provided shelter. The Ministry of Transport issued a special certificate for this passage. The islanders are apparently used to camping under blue plastic tarps on cargo ships passing by in order to get back to their islands, and told us that Picton Castle was luxury compared to that. And we fed them too!

With several children aboard slight adjustments needed to be made to the watch assignments. Naturally we still had helm and lookout – and to that we added “kid watch”. Three crew members stood watch for climbing, running or crying young’ns at one time. One was stationed on the aloha deck, one on the starboard side amidships and one of the port side amidships. What a busy hour it turned out to be as well! A few crew members, including Georgie, Shawn, Adrienne, Ollie and Lauren, proved to be particularly skilled when it came to the art of distracting and entertaining children.

Donald was a dream in the Galley, as usual. With many more mouths to feed Joani became Donald’s assistant for the week and between the two of them we had hearty, mouth-watering savoury meals and scrumptious sweet desserts. One could say the ship was cozy. We motored toward Palmerston with a full ship, full bellies and full arms…

cargo loading for Palmerston, Nassau and PukaPuka
Jo, Yo, Nadia, Meredith, Siri and Bob say good byes
passengers and crew-motoring to Palmerston
School visitors

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