I spotted Palmerston Atoll of the Cook Islands Group at about 1130 hrs while on lookout. It came up over the horizon just a half point off the starboard bow and the excitement grew as word spread aboard ship that our next destination was about three hours away.

Through my binoculars I could make out an edge of palm trees rising above the swells then disappearing again with each pitch of the bow. The atoll was only ten feet or so above sea level and impossible to survey at a distance of more than 15 miles.

One by one the neighboring atolls or “motus” began to show themselves until we had six of them in view. Those of us not on watch took the time to organize our gear for going ashore, and by 1430 hrs we were rounding the south end of Palmerston past four or five yachts (sloops and cats) anchored on the coral reef. We struck sail and readied our own hook.

We were met by several small aluminum outboard motor boats—islanders coming to collect their cargo—and it reminded me that there was a lot of work yet to be done before we could go ashore. We had brought freight from Rarotonga—lumber, roofing, supplies, and parcels—and it all had to be off-loaded onto these little boats while standing at anchor about 50 meters from dangerous coral. Just another day at the office for these hardy islanders. The Captain chose a good spot to leeward of the reef and dropped anchor so that our stern was stuck out over several hundred feet of water. We had that cargo unloaded in short order: cement, bicycles, freezers for storing fish—all carried ashore by burly men with grinning faces. Then it was our turn, the crew’s chance to experience this little paradise.

We climbed down the rope ladder and were shuttled ashore via a maze-like pathway through the shallow waters of the reef. I saw twisted rusting hulks sticking up out of the water where less fortunate sailors had ventured with their crafts. Looking down I could see that we were riding over jagged coral, some of it hidden only by 4-6 inches of water—and this at high tide!

I felt confidence in our coxswain and host, Paul, who knew his way through the reef like the back of his hand. I thought this island, with its encircling reef, must make a good natural fortress against anyone looking to raid its shores. That was just the romantic side of me thinking, and I knew that it was not the intention of these people to keep anyone out. Quite the contrary: Paul explained to me that the people who live on Palmerston Atoll benefit greatly from having visitors, and so they welcome them with open hearts. With no regular supply ships, Paul and his family of seven must live off the land, catching fish on the reef, and rainwater from their roofs, until a ship or visiting private yacht comes with goods and supplies.

From my experiences with previous islanders I carried with me some items to give to Paul in return for letting me stay at his house. A machete, a set of paint brushes, a wood chisel, a bolt of cloth, pencils for the kids, and some food that the Captain had given me for them. This was much appreciated by Paul, who was a wood carver, and so much that he set to making me a Korero drum of white Mahogany to take back as a souvenir.

I Love Palmerston.

Brian Snelson

This entry was posted on Wednesday, September 21st, 2005 at 3:38 pm and is filed under World Voyage 4.