Picton Castle left her wharf for the first time since July 2007 today, being towed a few hundred metres away to the drydock at Lunenburg Industrial Foundry and Engineering. Instead of using her main engine, the ship was manoeuvred with the help of three tugboats. They pulled the ship away from the wharf, along the harbour and into the cradle at the Foundry.

Getting all the pieces in place in order to take the ship out of the water must be done precisely and takes a while. There is a long track that goes from land down into the water and a cradle, a platform that supports the ship, slides along the track. Before the ship arrived, the cradle was sent down the track into the water. The ship was towed into the cradle and secured with dock lines once it was in the proper position. Workers from the Foundry measured to make sure that the ship was exactly in the middle of the cradle. The ship was supported below by blocks as the cradle was hauled up, so it was important to be sure that the blocks were in the right places. Before the hauling began, divers swam below the ship to make sure that everything was lined up correctly. Once everyone was satisfied that the blocks were in the right positions and the track was clear, a giant chain began to haul the cradle up the track. The bow of the ship rose first, those on shore could see the ship’s waterline rise above the surface. The hauling stopped for a few minutes so the divers could do another check of the blocks, and more blocks could be put in place. They reported that the stern of the ship was still sitting two inches above the blocks, while the bow was now resting on the blocks. Again, once everyone was clear, the giant chain started to haul the cradle up. The process was stopped once more and inspected by the divers, who reported that the ship’s stern was only half an inch above the blocks. Everything was looking as it should and the ship seemed stable, so the hauling began again and continued until the cradle reached the top of the track.

The last time Picton Castle was out of the water was in May 2005, here in Lunenburg, just prior to the fourth world voyage. Seeing the whole hull is quite unusual and makes me realize how huge the ship really is and how much space there is below the waterline. Putting the ship into drydock allows us to clean the bottom and inspect the hull thoroughly, put on a new coat of anti-fouling bottom paint (paint that discourages sea creatures from attaching themselves to the hull) and overhaul all the through-hull fittings.

Drydock 1

Drydock 2

Drydock 3

Drydock 4

Drydock 5

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A week ago, the final instalment of the trainee fee was due for those trainees joining Picton Castle for the full year or Leg 1 of the Voyage of the Atlantic. Making that final payment represents a real commitment, and also a huge leap of faith.

As a former trainee, I remember the combination of excitement and nervousness I felt that grew as the time to join the ship drew closer. Right now, there are a group of trainees with those same emotions. They’re wondering what activities and challenges they will face in a day, what their shipmates will be like, how to fit all their gear in a duffle bag or two and how on earth they will learn and remember all 175 lines of running rigging.

Trainees have a lot of details to take care of in preparing for a voyage. One of the most important things on the list is to make sure that their passports are valid for at least six months beyond the end of the voyage and that they have enough blank pages for all the stamps they are sure to collect. While immunizations are less of a concern on Leg 1, trainees need to see their doctors or travel health clinics to make sure they are vaccinated for the areas the ship plans to visit. Trainees also have to make their own travel arrangements to meet the ship and set up health insurance coverage. All of this is in addition to preparing to leave their jobs, homes and families for an extended period, which is no small task.

As the beginning of May approaches, excitement builds. Trainees have told me about shopping trips for foul weather gear, gym memberships to get in better physical shape and internet research on ports the ship plans to visit. Many report having a hard time concentrating at work as their thoughts turn frequently to the adventure ahead. It’s time to begin the countdown—54 days until our first all hands muster!

Picton Castle has a temporary addition that makes her look quite different when walking down the dock. Because the ship’s stern is closest to the shore, it’s impossible to miss the cover over the quarterdeck. Made of plastic sheeting fastened over a wooden frame, this cover will help keep the quarterdeck dry and protected so that we can continue to work through the winter.

Many vessels that are kept outside during the winter are covered to help protect them from the elements. Picton Castle is usually not covered for the winter, but with the carpentry work on the deck that started in the fall, we have chosen to cover the quarterdeck and continue. The cover doesn’t stop it from being cold, so there are still days when it is difficult to work, but it does keep the deck dry enough to be able to carry on with replacing some of the wood and caulking. You can see this work in progress, under the cover, in the photo below.

Quarterdeck Cover

Wheel and binnacle under cover

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Lunenburg, Picton Castle’s home port, is fairly quiet in the winter. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do. One of the nice things about having the ship tied up for a while is that the crew can work regular, predictable hours, taking most evenings and weekends off. That much time off is a luxury to the crew of a sailing ship, so we’re sure to make the most of it.

Most evenings you can find at least some of the Picton Castle crew at the newly renovated Grand Banker, the local restaurant/pub that becomes our second home in the winter. The place got a facelift in November with new floors, a slightly revised booth arrangement and a fresh coat of paint. The changes make it easier to move around and the new decor looks great. The Grand Banker has started a trivia night on Saturdays, and the Picton Castle team placed first for two weeks in a row in February.

Ben, Kjetil and I took curling lessons at the Lunenburg Curling Club in November and have continued to curl through the winter. We have recruited the rest of the crew to play with us, or at least come and watch, when the club hosts “Friday Fun Night” which is open to anyone, whether you’re a club member or not. Some of us are really improving from week to week, and we’re all having a good time playing this very social sport.

For the crew of a barque that sails mostly in the tropics, we’re really embracing winter. In addition to curling, we have been to the local arena to ice skate a few times. Skating was particularly fun before Christmas when we had a whole group of former crew visiting and there was a huge crowd at the rink. Lynsey and Rebecca have been snowboarding at a hill a short drive away from Lunenburg and hope to go again before the winter is over. I’m sure that all of the crew have thrown a few snowballs, made snowmen or snow angels.

Ben sweeping

Kjetil calls the shots

Maggie delivers a stone

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“Your dinner aboard the ship is some expensive,” said the woman sitting across from me in the doctor’s office waiting room.

Dinner aboard the ship, I wondered. Huh? “Oh, you mean the dinner that’s being auctioned off in support of LaHave Manor.”

“Fifty dollars a ticket, prepared by the Captain, served on the ship,’ she continued, until finally she permitted me to explain that the $50 ticket is for a dinner and auction in support of the local residential centre that provides a home and care for mentally challenged adults and the dinner – for six, to be prepared and served by Capt. Moreland and World Voyage IV crew member/television actor Billy Campbell aboard Picton Castle – is just one of the items that attendees will be invited to bid on.

“Well, I was going to say that $50 a person would be a lot for dinner on a ship,” she persisted.

“Actually, we’re hoping they’ll get a lot more than that,” I said, at which point she looked me dead in the face as if to see whether I was one of those people who would part with their money so easily. As a born and bred Lunenburger, I’m generally not.

“Well, at least it’s for a good cause,” she concluded. I agreed.

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As I write this Captain’s log the Picton Castle is tugging on her moorings at her old wharf in Lunenburg with a southeasterly gale roaring along the coast. The fishing vessels Primo and Zebroid, who share our wharf, do the same. Violent rain squalls are blowing hard horizontally across the harbour. Skies and white-cap-spattered seas in the harbour are a uniform battleship grey. The black scallop draggers of Adams & Knickle steamed in and discharged their catch this morning, and they too are having a bit of a ride at the wharf. The ships have all their hawsers doubled up, as well they should. Out in the harbour a couple of small schooners and even an old black Newfoundland schooner are bucking and jerking at their moorings. But inside our office at 132 Montague Street, overlooking Bluenose Drive and the wharves, all is warm and dry. Nice not to be clawing off a lee shore just now.

The Picton Castle has her sails off, sent down and stowed below for the time being. All her yards are still crossed; the running rigging is still rove off in anticipation for her passage south to the Caribbean, planned for the end of November. It is quite amazing to think that only two or three days’ sail due south from Nova Scotia a vessel crosses the Gulf Stream and sails into beautiful warm waters and then soon into the northeast trade-winds followed by some of the best islands in the world in the West Indies. Sign ups are coming along nicely. Wouldn’t you rather spend a sweet Christmas time in the Grenadines wearing shorts, tee-shirts or a sarong? And skipping the madness and commercialism of the holiday period? Bring a pal and sail with us this Yule time in the Christmas Winds of the Windward Isles of the Caribbean. My favorite Christmas-times have always been with a tropical sun and a trade-wind blowing to cool me, barefoot and suntanned, in the lee of a beautiful coconut-palm-covered island.

Along the waterfront

The Schooner Bluenose II…

is hauled out at the Lunenburg slipways for her annual dry-docking. One glance at her sleek hull-form below the waterline and any mystery concerning her swift sailing capability should be quickly dispelled. The gang from Snyder’s Shipbuilding over in Dayspring is doing some routine caulking. The ring of caulking mallets against iron, driving tarry oakum in between her hard oak planks, fills the air of the shipyard once again. It is an interesting opportunity for our crew to go over to the slipways, watch and learn something about the trade and hard work of caulking. The Bluenose II is “flat-roofed,” that is, she has her topmasts sent down. In the old days this was sometimes called the “winter-rig,” as the fishing schooners rarely carried their topmasts in the winter fishing season. Anyway, it is quite a sight to see that big, sleek powerful schooner out of the water.

The Old Dory Shop…

right next to the Picton Castle wharf in the east end of the waterfront is still making wood-chips and putting out dories and other small wooden boats. Jay, the boatwright, is working on a “transom dory.” This is simply a regular dory but with the high tombstone stern replaced with a broad transom that will take an outboard easily. This will make a good run-about utility recreation-fishing workboat. I always had a boat like this (bought 2nd-3rd hand for a short song from the local boat livery) when I was a kid for messing around the islands nearby. It was seaworthy, fast, easy to handle, and could carry a ton of stuff—we will be interested to see how it comes out (www.doryshop.com).

Schooner Races

The Great September Classic Schooner Race has come and gone. About a dozen schooners from the area sailed off their moorings in Lunenburg Harbour a week and a half ago, out into the bay, rounded Cross Island and made a majestic sight sailing back in with the well-named Schooner Comet II taking line honours.

Many sweet schooners sailed into Lunenburg for this gathering. The day broke fair and clear with a fine westerly breeze. While the schooners were out racing, some Picton Castle crew were setting up the big barbeque and roasting the mutton at the Dory Shop. Our old dugout served once again as beer cooler. The post-race feast lasted into the wee hours with music, plenty food and drink and good time had by all at this salty corner of Lunenburg Harbour. We want to see schooners being built here once again.

Chibley the Cat…

Is moping around a little without her shipmates. She is used to having 40-50 people around to adore her. Now she is down to four, none of whom are on night watch when she comes out to prowl. She has been modeling clothes lately but with a noticeable lack of enthusiasm. She is waiting for the new gang to show up, I suppose.

A working waterfront

Bluenose II cleaning, Lunenburg, mid October 06

Bluenose II in drydock, lunenburg, mid October 06

Kathleen, Ian, Scott, Nadja and Chloe carry a sail lunenburg

Lunenburg Dories with Picton Castle

PC, Primo, and Zebroid docked in Lunenburg

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