Captain’s Log – Westward Bound in the Barque Picton Castle

Westward Bound in the Barque Picton Castle 22-20S  / 139-16W midday August 8, 2018

Sailing along here just south of an atoll called Fangataufa in the Tuamotus. Yards close to square, with a big fan in them, sky strikingly blue, swells about 12 foot, also as blue as can be. Rolling along sailing ever westward in this South Pacific Ocean as fine as can be done. We can see the palms of the atoll in haze off to the north on the starboard beam about 6 miles away. This atoll was a base for Marururoa of nuke testing fame. Pretty enough from here, wonder what the fish are like?

We are bound for Rarotonga after a fine stop at Mangareva and an outstanding visit to Pitcairn. Pitcairn was as good as a visit could be, so say the Pitcairners themselves. And Mangareva is sweet. Quiet and serene, we go through several passes to anchor inside a lagoon, inside another lagoon, inside a barrier reef. Beautiful. And deceptive. Very smooth but holding is not the best for a ship like Picton Castle. Once in at the anchorage, we are surrounded by reef not more than a few ship-lengths away should the vessel start to drag in a squall. But there is the copra wharf we could lash ourselves to should the need arise and a supply ship is not in at the moment. What I like about Mangareva besides everything*  is that with the surrounding islands, still within the greater lagoon, only 3 and 4 miles away there are a number of islands perfect for overnight longboat expeditions for the gang. So, after clearing in and the first run ashore to find that elusive cold drink (and today, we must ALL check out our Facebook!), and after some practice sailing in the bay and packing waaay too much, off they sail for the night and day for an island called Aukena or Akamaru, find a pass around the coral heads, pull up the boats out of the swell, make camp and a fire, cook something up and get bit by bugs and goats. Ok, no goats. The longboat, the big dory, and a spare skiff as a chase or rescue boat and a radio check-in with the mother ship. I expect that they will get up to some hijinks – but no, not this crowd, reports that all went to bed, hammock, nest, early…But very interesting to sail a boat almost identical to Bligh’s Bounty Launch all around a South Pacific lagoon. And, the gang had great fun trading for black pearls.

* tall dark mountains as a backdrop, white tropicbirds with their forked tails swooping in couples high overhead, flaming hibiscus everywhere, fragrant Tiare Tahiti also, baguettes, pamplemousse, dancing in the halls, sunsets from the wharf, mixing it up with the pearl divers, swimming in the lagoon, kids swimming out to the ship and swinging off a fore-yard swing rope, young couples swaying in their pareaus walking down a quiet lane, catching up with old acquaintances, black pearls, the odd scooter or pickup puttering by, calm evenings, roosters waking us before dawn, take the skiff in at 0600 to pick up fresh baguettes at the bakery that had been ordered the night before, looking out across the lagoon over the motus to the crashing surf beyond, thinking about the rich history of Polynesia here mostly lost to time, thoughts of Pitcairn Island over the years, the miles and passages ahead.

Scroll to Top